Cruising along on the
Merritt Parkway awhile back I was struck by its natural beauty, unique bridges
and amazing landscaping. But until I did
some research, I didn’t appreciate its history.
A hundred years ago the only
way to drive
between New York and Boston was on Route 1, The Post Road. If you think traffic is bad today, imagine
that journey! So in 1936, two thousand
men began work on the state’s largest public works project, the $21 million
four lane parkway starting in Greenwich and running to the Housatonic River in
Stratford. The adjoining Wilbur
Cross Parkway didn’t open until years later when the Sikorsky
Bridge across the Housatonic was completed.
As the Merritt was being
planned, a major real estate scandal caught Darien real estate agent G Leroy
Kemp in cahoots with two brokers as they paid inflated prices for land for the
parkway and split the proceeds.
The Merritt, named after
Stamford resident, Congressman Schuyler Merritt, is best known for its natural
beauty, though most of it was planted:
22,000 trees and 40,000 shrubs.
And then there are the bridges, since 1991 protected on the National
Register of Historic Places.
Architect George
Dunkleberger designed 69
bridges in a variety of architectural styles, from Art Moderne
to Deco to Rustic. Their adornments were
better appreciated when cars were
poking along at half of today’s speeds, but
they are still beautiful. No two bridges are exactly alike. In short order the Merritt was being hailed
as “The
Queen of Parkways”.
The parkway at first had
tolls, a dime (later 35 cents) at each of three barriers, not to pay for the
parkway’s upkeep but to finance its extension to Hartford via the Wilbur Cross
Parkway, named after Wilbur Lucius Cross who was Governor in the 1930’s. Tolls were dropped in 1988.
The old
toll booths themselves were as unique as the Parkway, constructed
of wooden beams and covered in shingles.
One of the original booths is now preserved in Stratford at the Boothe
Memorial Park.
The Merritt’s right of way
is a half-mile wide, the vistas more obvious now since massive tree clearing
after the two storms in 2011 and 2012 where downed trees pretty much closed the
highway.
Since its design and opening
in 1938 the Merritt Parkway has been off-limits to commercial vehicles and
trucks. But as traffic worsens on I-95,
debates rage from time to time about allowing trucks on the Merritt and
possibly widening the road. Either move
would probably mean demolition of the Parkway’s historic bridges, so don’t
expect such expansion anytime soon.
The best watchdog of the
Parkway is the Merritt
Parkway Conservancy which has fought to preserve the road’s
unique character. Their latest battle is
against plans for a multi-use trail along the south side of the roadway.
Costing an estimated $6.6
million per mile, the Conservancy worries that the trees and
foliage that would be clear-cut to allow bike and pedestrian users would
despoil the eco-system.